I headed north from Athens and stopped in Clarksville Georgia, a very red town where I immediately saw a group of about 25 on a state corner waving signs. I walked over, picked up a sign in support of democracy and human dignity and had the chance to talk to a number of folks who told me they don’t do this kind of thing…the last time was after George Floyd was murdered. They were nervous about it, but they knew they had to be seen so that others knew that everyone isn’t ok with what’s going on in this country. The number of honks and cheers was uplifting, but there were quite a few middle fingers and f*** you too. I watched as a man in a passing truck yelled and swore and looked so enraged he might blow a gasket in response to this group of mostly retirees holding signs that mostly elevated what people support, like democracy. The most negative sign I saw, and also my favorite was “Fight Truth Decay.” This was definitely the most hostile environment I’ve been in on this trip. That might be why the sheriff drover by at least ten times while I was there.
I stayed at the Miles Through Time Automobile Museum and was treated to a fabulous private tour by the docents, Jane and Dave, who have five of the 100 or so vehicles in the museum, including this old classic;
They were able to point out all kinds of details, like an early version of cruise control that seemed entirely unreliable and a couple of concept cars constructed by students at Clemson. I had a great time there – I really enjoy cool cars with beautiful paint as the eye candy they are.
I hit the road the next morning on Highway 441 which would take me through the Smoky Mountains National Park. I stopped for a few photo ops and to look at elk grazing, but I have to admit it was a little underwhelming.
Leaving the park I drove through Pigeon Forge…hooweeee! The visual stimuli was overwhelming and I didn’t know what to make of it. It reminded me of a family-oriented Reno – big signs, rides and objects demanding my attention as I navigated the busy highway. It was such a spectacle that I kind of wanted to stop, but I kept driving as I was already behind schedule and eager to get to the home of friends Chuck and Luis where I would spend the next few days. I hadn’t seen Chuck in maybe 15 years and I was so happy at the chance to catch up and meet Luis. You know how it is when you haven’t spoken to a friend in a long time and then you do, and it’s as if no time has passed at all? That’s how it was.
Chuck gave me a nice driving tour of Knoxville and the towns around it, then I went downtown on my own the next day when he was at work, finding a memorial to key figures in the struggle for women’s suffrage and an alley lined with murals. I also visited the Knoxville Museum of Art which had several exhibits related to the work people do. One exhibit was specific to the under-representation of Black, Indigenous and People of Color in the arts in higher education (I’m simplifying…it was deep and I can’t do it justice with a summary); another included photographs, paintings and punch needle embroidery reflecting work.
During dinner I brought up a job with the city of Seattle and Chuck pointed out that I’d brought up several times – it had really captured my attention and I should apply. Luis chimed in and I realized yes, I should! Spending so much time alone can be tricky – without others to pose questions, raise possibilities or challenge my thinking it’s easy to fall into old habits or rigid thinking.
After four days with Chuck and Luis, my next destination was Nashville. I hadn’t planned on going there but it was so close I decided to do it. The Country Music Hall of Fame was terrific…music is such a powerful force! The downtown main drag had lots of bars with live bands and I went into one and listened for a bit, but decided I wanted to go to Midtown where the scene was more relaxed and less touristy. It was Heavy Hitter night at Odie’s, meaning there would be four singer/songwriters on stage taking turns performing three songs each, then another four would take the stage and then one more round. I stayed for two, enjoying the music and chatting with a couple from Ohio in town visiting their daughter, then headed off to Cracker Barrel for the night.
The next day I visited the Marathon Motor Works Village, formerly a cotton mill built in 1881 and then a car factory that lasted just a few years. It’s been transformed into an artist community and a variety of shops…an all thing Jack Daniels store, a high-end clothing store with a $500 shirt I fell in love with (but did not buy), a “tactical” store (weapons) and a carefully curated book store that included Baby’s First Book of Banned Books among other unique stores.
Next I headed to the capitol and on the way happened upon two tunnels with murals and Frankie Pierce Park. Frankie, I learned, was born around 1864 and spent her life fighting for the rights of women generally, and Black girls and women specifically. She was a teacher, played a significant role in women winning the right to vote and founded the Tennessee Vocational School for Colored Girls (https://www.blacksouthernbelle.com/nashville-names-park-after-noted-educator-activist-juno-frankie-pierce/). Tennessee was the 36th and final state to ratify the 19th amendment and Frankie Pierce played a big role in making that so.
The capitol seemed modest, but two large brass plaques caught my attention – one highlighting citizenship for Black men and the right to vote and one highlighting women’s suffrage. It was nice to see that, especially since outside there was a big statue of Andrew Jackson, one of three Tennesseans to become president…Gore woulda made four, just sayin’. I remember visiting an outdoor museum in Budapest that was filled with all kinds of statues of communist-era figures after the fall. Interesting idea.
Considering that Nashville was hit hard by the storm a few weeks ago, I feel especially lucky that I was able to visit. Next stop is Kentucky where I hope to hear some blue grass music and spend time at Mammoth Cave National Park.
Karen in the Gap 
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